Haggis—sheep guts mixed with oats and boiled in a stomach casing—is best enjoyed with a liberal amount of whiskey. Actually, I recommend getting started on the whiskey before the haggis even hits your plate, but as they say: When in Scotland, do as the royal family does. True, nobody says that—but they should. I got the royal treatment there recently. Not the fussy, pampered, can’t-lift-a-finger-for-yourself royal treatment. This is luxury, Scottish style. It’s full of activity and energy, ...

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