Le Cinq restaurant at the Four Seasons Hotel George V is drop-dead gorgeous, a cream-and-gold fantasy adorned with 17th-century tapestries and startlingly tall flower arrangements of a single flower, such as a calla lily in a 4-foot-high, clear glass vase. The flowers alone are a conversation piece.

This is a dining experience that engages all five senses, from the moment that the surprisingly friendly maitre d' seats you at your table with low-key fanfare — which includes a little stool on which ladies place their purses — to the final candy guéridon with homemade marshmallows. The cuisine, which has earned Executive Chef Philippe Legendre two Michelin Stars, is fancy but not fussy, with clear, fresh flavors that linger on the palate.