Golf, whiskey, haggis, poet Robert Burns, designer Charles Rennie Mackintosh, the windswept moors — these are the images I had of Scotland before visiting for the first time. What I discovered in a whirlwind tour of Edinburgh, the Glasgow countryside, and St. Andrews, fulfilled those expectations and also held some surprises — chief among them, the spas. At the legendary Balmoral hotel in Edinburgh, originally built in 1902, spa treatments begin with a fruit smoothie. All spa products are ...

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