Le Cinq restaurant at the Four Seasons Hotel George V is drop-dead gorgeous, a cream-and-gold fantasy adorned with 17th-century tapestries and startlingly tall flower arrangements of a single flower, such as a calla lily in a 4-foot-high, clear glass vase. The flowers alone are a conversation piece. This is a dining experience that engages all five senses, from the moment that the surprisingly friendly maitre d' seats you at your table with low-key fanfare — which includes a little stool on ...

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