Ebullient Fijians often raise both arms in salutation (bula!), leaving no doubt that visitors to this archipelago of 333 islands are welcome. Ocean breezes, white-sand beaches, clear water, and cheerful, polite islanders begin working their magic within minutes after guests clear customs at the main island's Nadi International Airport. Fiji's serenity prevailed even during a recent coup that peacefully replaced the country's government without a blip on its tourism radar screen. It took ...

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