The swanky, 389-room El San Juan Hotel & Casino, gleaming from a $30 million refurbishment completed in January, is tucked into a private, 15-acre enclave in San Juan, just five minutes from the airport. By day, guests are drawn outside to enjoy the long stretch of white-sand beach, swimming pools, whirlpools, and tennis courts. By night, the scene moves indoors as the lobby and adjacent casino and night spots come alive. The hotel's seven restaurants, nine lounges, two nightclubs, and
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